Apples

Apples are ready for harvest. There are hundreds of apple varieties that vary considerably in taste, size, storability, and time to maturity. Commercial apples are often picked when not fully tree ripened primarily to prevent bruising. But the home gardener or small grower can allow apples to completely ripen on the tree. A fully tree ripened apple has higher sugar content and the flavors are often more complex and rich.

Not everyone can grow their own apples, but if you have the space, there are many choices of apple varieties to grow in your back yard or small orchard. The UW-Extension publication A3565, Growing Apples in Wisconsin, provides extensive advice on apple production in Wisconsin, while other publications make cultivar recommendations. These publication are available from your local UW-Extension office.

Chrysanthemums

There are hundreds of varieties with a wide range of flower types and colors of this popular late summer to fall-blooming perennial plant. While many gardeners treat mums as annuals to provide quick fall color, here are some tips for growing them as perennials:

• Choose hardy varieties. Florists’ mums will not survive Wisconsin winters.
• Plant in spring to give more time to establish the roots, or as early in the fall as possible.
• Plant in full sun and moist, well-drained soil.
• Fertilize monthly during the growing season.
• Mulch with straw, marsh hay or evergreen boughs after the ground freezes to improve winter survival.
• Mums usually come up late in the spring.
• Pinch off the terminal shoots when 6-8” tall. Pinch again every 6-8” to promote branching and increase the number of flowers. Continue pinching until July 4th.

Boxelder Bug
Boisea trivittatus

The adults of this nuisance pest are dark gray to black and red and about 2” long, while the red immatures are smaller.

During summer they are found primarily on female boxelder trees where they suck plant sap from leaves and developing seeds. In fall adults leave the trees to find places to spend the winter. They often congregate in sunny spots on the south sides of buildings, trees and rocks on warm afternoons. The insects enter buildings through small gaps around windows, doors, and pipes and through small cracks in the foundation or siding.

Control

• Remove boxelder trees and their seeds.
• Seal up entry spots by caulking all openings around windows, doors, siding or foundations.
• Spray outdoor clusters of bugs with insecticides or insecticidal soap (read the label FIRST).
• Indoors suck up bugs with a vacuum cleaner.

Garden Clean-up

Take time this fall for gardening tasks that will help prevent disease problems next spring and summer.

Clean Up Plant Debris. Most fungal leaf pathogens overwinter in leaf litter, so removing dead leaves can eliminate an important source of fungal spores during the following growing season. Rake tree leaves. Cut back and remove diseased herbaceous plant debris after the top has been killed by frost. Recycle the organic waste at municipal sites or by home composting.

Pruning. Proper pruning of trees and shrubs allows for better air flow through the plant, which can be important in preventing foliar diseases. Fall and winter are good times to do this, as pathogens are less active during colder weather.

Watering. Regularly water trees and shrubs, especially evergreens, to prevent winter drying and browning.

Basil
Ocimum basilicum

Sweet basil is a warm season annual herb with highly aromatic leaves that has a pleasant spicy odor and taste somewhat like anise or cloves. There are many different cultivars of sweet basil – large and dwarf forms, with green, purple, or variegated leaves – that can be ornamental as well as edible. Some have distinctive flavors such as cinnamon or lemon.

Basil is easily grown from seed, or can be purchased as small potted plants. Sow seeds directly in the ground after all danger of frost has passed or start indoors 4-6 weeks before setting out for earlier harvests.

Basil requires temperatures above 50º to grow, but does best in hot weather. Plant in full sun and well-drained soil. Pinch off the terminal
shoots to encourage branching and tender new growth, and slow down flower production.

Black-eyed Susan
Rudbeckia species

This favorite summertime flower is sometimes an annual, sometimes a perennial, and sometimes a biennial (flowering in its second year, then dying). All 25 species are native to North America. They produce daisy-like flowers in yellow or gold tones, sometimes with red or bronze accents. There are many garden cultivars in a range of heights, flower size and colors.

Most types grow 2-3’ tall. They make excellent cut flowers and are attractive to butterflies and other insects. Plant black-eyed Susans in full sun for the best flower display. Deadhead spent flowers to prolong blooming.

Perennial varieties may be propagated by division during their dormant season. All varieties can be easily grown from seed. Start indoors 6-8
weeks before planting outdoors.

Whiteflies

There are many species of these tiny, snowwhite winged insects that attack a wide range of plants including house plants, garden flowers, vegetables,
weeds and poinsettias.

Adults and nymphs suck plant sap. Nymphs (which are the immature stages) may be found on the underside of leaves. Heavy feeding causes yellowing, premature leaf drop, and stunting of plants. These insects excrete sticky honeydew onto upper and lower leaf surfaces, permitting the development of black sooty mold fungus.

Control

• When purchasing plants inspect carefully to be sure plants are not infested.
• Eliminate weeds in and around gardens that harbor whiteflies.
• Begin insecticidal soap or chemical applications as soon as infestations are noticed (read the label FIRST).

Tomato Blights & Leaf Spots

Septoria leaf spot and early blight are the most common diseases of tomato foliage. Both start on the lower leaves and move up the plant.

Septoria leaf spot appears first as small, circular spots with gray centers on the lower leaves of the plants. Tiny black dots that look like little pepper grains may be seen in the spots. Early blight appears first as small brown “target” spots on the older leaves. These spots enlarge to 3” or more in diameter and the leaf tissue surrounding the spots often becomes yellow.

Control

• Plant tomatoes only once every three years in the same location.
• Use disease-free plants, and remove and destroy any infected leaves or old plant debris.
• Mulch around plants to reduce rain splashing fungal spores onto lower leaves.
• Apply fungicides at regular intervals to prevent infection (read the label FIRST).

Green Beans

This tender warm season annual used to be called string beans because of the tough string running the length of the pod. Breeding has eliminated the string, and now the pods “snap” when
broken giving rise to the name snap beans.

There are both bush and pole types. Pods may be oval, round and or flat and come in a range of colors including green, yellow, purple or red splotched. Bush beans produce most of their pods at the same time, and are usually earlier than pole types. Pole beans set pods on continually growing vines over a long period of time.

Plant bean seeds directly in the garden after the last frost when soil temperature is above 50ºF. Planting every 2-3 weeks to extend the harvest.

Pick fresh beans 14-18 days after full bloom, when pods are tender and seeds are not fully expanded.

Russian Sage
Perovskia atriplicifolia

Russian sage is an attractive perennial with elongate, gray-green leaves and square, silverygray stems that produces an airy cloud of color late in the summer. The tiny, purple-blue, tubular flowers are arranged in whorls along long stems. Because of its appearance and cold hardiness to zone 4, Russian Sage can be used as a substitute for lavender in northern gardens. It is quite drought resistant. The species grows 3-4’ tall, but some cultivars are more compact. Plant Russian sage in full sun and well-drained soil, spacing the
plants about 18” apart. Plants will rot if the soil is too moist.

This plant has few pest problems, but they tend to flop, especially when young. Use stakes or nearby plants to support them. Leave the old stems on through winter. Prune back in spring to about a foot tall.

Squash Vine Borer
Melittia cucurbitae

Squash vine borer attacks squash, zucchini, pumpkins, and gourds, causing the vines to wilt. Active in June and July, the adult is a day-flying, black and red moth that resembles a wasp. Eggs are laid on the plant’s stem and the immature larvae cause damage by feeding inside the stem. An orangish or greenish sawdust-like material oozing from holes in the stems confirms the presence of borers.

Control

• Cover stems with a barrier, such as strips of nylon stockings, to prevent egg laying.
• Catch and destroy the moths.
• Remove borers from vines if detected before much damage is done.
• Make chemical applications when eggs are hatching (read the label FIRST).

Drying Herbs

It’s easy to dry herbs for a year-round supply. The best time to harvest most herbs for drying is just as the flower buds first appear. Harvest in mid-morning when the leaves are dry, but before the sun is hot.

Air drying is the easiest, most inexpensive method for preserving herbs. Sturdy herbs such as sage, thyme, summer savory, dill, bay leaves, oregano, rosemary andmarjoram are well suited for air-drying. Tie washed branches into small bundles (5-6 stems) and hang them upside down, in a warm (70-80°F), dry, well ventilated area out of direct sunlight until the moisture evaporates (generally 2-4 weeks).

A dehydrator works best for drying tender leafed, high moisture herbs such as basil, tarragon, lemon balm and mint. Store dried herbs in airtight containers in a cool, dry, dark place.

Beets

Beets are a cool season crop, and should be planted early in the spring – about 4 weeks before the average date of last frost. Sow beet seeds every 3-4 weeks until midsummer to extend the harvest. Although beets are really a biennial, they are always grown as annuals. There are red, striped, and golden varieties.

Direct sow seeds ½” deep and about 1” apart in full sun or partial shade. They prefer well-worked, loose soil that is high in organic matter. Thin seedlings to about 2” apart once they are large enough to handle. Cultivate regularly as beets do not compete well with weeds, being careful not to damage the shallow roots. Beets have few significant pest problems.

Both the leaves and roots are edible. Beet roots can be harvested anytime after the root reaches 1” in diameter. Twist off the leaves rather than cutting them to prevent “bleeding.”

Purple Coneflower
Echinacea purpurea

This showy, drought tolerant perennial is native to prairie communities of the Midwestern and southeastern US. Its daisy-like flowers are 3-4” across with soft lavender or purple petals surrounding an iridescent red-orange, coned center. Established clumps grow 2-3 feet tall. The large, fragrant flowers bloom all summer and are attractive to butterflies and bees. Several cultivars are available in different heights and flower sizes, as well as some with white petals and newer ones in shades of orange or yellow.

Purple coneflower grows best in full sun and fertile, well-drained soils. It is easy to grow the native type from seed (and it self-seeds readily), but cultivars must be purchased. It is deer-resistant and has few pests.

Cabbage Worms

Three species of caterpillars (imported cabbageworm, cabbage looper, and diamondback moth) all feed on the leaves of cabbage, broccoli, and other cole crops. Usually they chew holes through the leaves or eat the surface, leaving tissue- like windows in leaves, but very small diamondback larvae tunnel inside the leaf. Much of the feeding is on the older leaves, which can be tolerated at moderate levels. The most serious damage occurs when they feed directly on the harvestable part of the plant.

Control

• Use row covers to prevent adults from laying eggs on plants.
• The worms can be hand-picked from plants.
• Make Bt or chemical applications when larvae are less than ½ inch long (read the label FIRST).
• All three species are attacked by various parasites in the egg, larval and pupal stages, and can be affected by virus diseases.

Easy Composting

Composting transforms kitchen and yard wastes into rich humus that amends the soil. Worried that it is too difficult or too much work? Don’t be. There are many easy ways to recycle leaves, excess grass clippings, weeds and other plant wastes into compost.

Sheet method — spread a thin (1-2”) layer of grass, leaves or other plant material over the soil surface. Time, weather and microorganisms will eventually turn this material into compost.

Trench method — dig a trench, fill it with plant waste and cover with soil, or use plant waste to mulch the pathways of your garden.

Pile method — just throw your plant wastes in a heap and let it rot. Or use a compost bin to keep things neater. Add seed-free weeds, cut grass, kitchen scraps like vegetable peelings and coffee grounds, and raked leaves. In time everything will decay, but to speed the process, water when dry and turn the contents periodically.

Spinach

Spinach is a cool-season crop that should be planted in early spring, about 4 weeks before your area’s average date of last frost. There are two basic types of spinach — smooth leaves or crinkly (savoy) leaves.

Spinach does best in well drained soil rich in organic matter, and will tolerate partial shade. Keep weed-free by careful cultivation to avoid injuring the shallow roots. Make sequential plantings about 2 weeks apart to continue harvesting spinach through the summer. The plant grows a rosette of dark green leaves, but under warm temperatures and long day length it bolts, or goes to seed. Spinach may also be planted in early fall.

Begin picking individual leaves when the plants are about 2" tall or harvest the entire plant at maturity. The leaves may be eaten fresh or cooked and can be refrigerated up to 1 week.

Peony

Herbaceous peonies are old-fashioned favorites that are easy to grow and often live 50 years or more. These shrub-like plants grow to 3-4’ tall and wide. Large, full double-flowering peonies may be the most popular, but several other forms are available, including single, anemone, and semidouble, in colors ranging from pinks, reds, white and even yellow.

The best time to plant peonies is in early fall — September and October are ideal. Plant in full sun in a fertile, well-drained site. Planting depth is critical to flowering. The“eyes” at the top of the roots should be planted about 1½ inches below the soil surface; if planted deeper the plants will not flower. It may take 2-3 years for the plants to flower after transplanting as they establish their extensive root system. After the leaves die back in fall, cut the plant to the ground to control diseases.

Aphids

Most aphids are c” long and have “exhaust pipes” protruding from the back end of their pear-shaped bodies. Many species are green, but others are white, yellow, red (pink), brown, black, or mottled. They reproduce rapidly to form colonies or clumps, particularly on the new growth of plants.

Aphids have sucking mouthparts and feed exclusively on plant sap from stems, leaves, and even roots. Large numbers of aphids can reduce the vigor of plants. In some cases feeding causes distorted leaves, stunting and/or wilting. Some species of aphids transmit plant viruses. Control:

• Natural controls – such as weather and predators – eliminate significant numbers of aphids.
• Gardeners may use a strong jet of water to wash aphids off plants.
• Insecticidal soap controls aphids well, but must be applied frequently.

Verticillium Wilt

Verticillium wilt is a disease caused by a soilborne fungus with a very wide host range. It commonly affects maple, ash, redbud and smokebush as well as various vegetable crops.

The fungus typically enters plants through wounds in the root tissue, but can also get into intact roots that are under drought stress or located in overly wet soil. The fungus grows and reproduces in the tree’s vascular system, eventually blocking it so water can no longer reach the leaves. This causes wilting or flagging of foliage. Leaves may drop while they are still green, especially in ash. Symptoms typically progress from the top of the tree downward. Control:

• There is no cure for verticillium wilt. To keep an infected plant alive as long as possible, prune
  out the infected branches.
• Use plants resistant to the fungus.

Asparagus

This hardy perennial vegetable is easy to grow in Wisconsin gardens. Choose a site without any perennial weeds such as quackgrass, Canada thistle, or creeping Jenny because perennial weeds intermixed with asparagus can be very difficult to control. Plant purchased crowns about 1 foot apart in early spring. Mulch and use shallow cultivation to prevent weed growth. After fall frost remove the fronds to reduce the possibility of disease (rust) and insect (asparagus beetle).

Wait until the third year to begin harvesting when spears are 6-8” tall, breaking or cutting near the soil. Asparagus is best eaten on the day it is picked, but it can be stored in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days.

Bleeding Heart
Dicentra spectabilis

This old-fashioned spring-blooming perennial flower has pink or white heart-shaped blooms that hang along arching stems. The plant grows 2-3 feet tall and wide. The soft green foliage remains attractive until the plant goes dormant in late summer.

Bleeding heart is easy to grow in moist, well drained humus soil in part shade — such as a shaded border or woodland garden. Because the foliage goes dormant, it is best to plant bleeding heart among later developing perennials such as hostas and ferns which will fill in as the bleeding heart foliage begins to die back. Drought will send the plant into early dormancy.

Fringed bleeding heart (Dicentra eximis) is smaller and finer textured, with upright flowers, but will maintain foliage all summer.

Colorado Potato Beetle
Leptinotarsa decemlineata

This pest feeds primarily on potato, but will attack other plants in the nightshade family.

Adult beetles — about 3/8 inch long and are yellowish-orange with multiple black stripes — overwinter in the soil and emerge in the spring when potato plants are coming up. Females lay clusters of yellow eggs on the underside of leaves, and the brick-red larvae feed on leaves before pupating in cells in the soil. There are generally 2 generations per year in Wisconsin.

Control

• Plant early maturing varieties to avoid much of the damage caused by midsummer adults.
• Handpick adults and larvae off plants and destroy, and remove or crush the eggs.
• Use BT (Bacillus thuringiensis var. tenebrionis)against young larvae only.

Crabgrass vs. Quackgrass

These two weedy grasses with coarse leaves are often confused.

Quackgrass is a perennial grass that has extensive underground whitish rhizomes (underground stems) from which new plants can arise. New, upright leaves appear early in the spring. This plant is difficult to control by weeding; chemical herbicides are most effective.

Crabgrass is a low-growing, warm season annual grass that germinates about the time common lilac is in the early bloom stage, sets seed in late summer, and dies with the first frost. It often forms patches in lawns, with plants growing together to form large clumps. The best defense is a thick, vigorously growing lawn, but it is easy to control in both lawns and ornamental beds with preemergent herbicides (applied before it germinates) or can be removed by hand.