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Striped skunks are members of the weasel family (Mustelidae). They are generally considered beneficial because of their diet which consists primarily of insects such as crickets, grasshoppers, beetles, cutworms, armyworms and other insect larvae. Skunks will also feed on small mammals such as mice, rats, shrews, moles, ground squirrels as well as garden vegetables and fruits and bird eggs.
Skunks are about the size of a large domestic cat. They are easily identified by their jet black coat with white stripes that run from the top of their head down their back. They are primarily nocturnal and are most active from early evening through most of the night. Although they don't actually hibernate, skunks are less active during the winter. Litters are born in early spring with four to six young per litter. The young venture out on their own in fall.
Skunks pose a problem when they settle in near human habitation. Their odorous musk is generally considered unpleasant at the very least and a problem for pets. Skunks also pose a problem when they dig in turf areas for insects, leaving small holes in the ground. Rabies is another serious concern wherever skunks live. Skunks are very susceptible to this viral disease and are capable of transmitting it to other mammals through direct contact such as biting. Symptoms of rabies develop more slowly in skunks than other mammals and symptoms may not appear for weeks or even months after infection. During this time, skunks are still capable of transmitting the disease.
Skunks are pretty easy to identify both by sight and smell. It may take some nocturnal sleuthing to locate a den entrance on your property.
Exclusion is an effective means of skunk control. Areas inhabited by skunks can be screened with 2 inch wire mesh. It is important not to screen the entrance until after the skunk has left. Sprinkle sand or flour near the entrance and look for tracks after dusk. When you are sure the skunk has left, tightly seal the opening. It is important to extend the barrier several inches below ground to prevent the skunk from digging under it.
If you suspect there are multiple skunks, create a one-way door by hanging 2 inch hardware cloth from the top of the opening. The remaining three sides are left loose and the screen should be larger than the opening so it cannot swing inward. Skunks in the den will push out against the hardware cloth but will not be able to push it in the opposite direction to get back in. Keep in mind that young skunks may be in the den from April through August and you must make absolutely sure the den is empty before sealing the entrance.
Habitat modifications that will deter skunks from school properties include the removal of brush, wood piles, stacks of building material, or debris. Fencing, where practical such as premier athletic fields, will also keep skunks out of an area. Keep in mind that gates must remain closed at all times to prevent skunks from entering a fenced area.
When necessary, skunks can be trapped and removed from areas where they are unwanted. A live trap baited with fish, fish-flavored cat food, chicken parts, bacon, or peanut butter on bread works well. Traps should be 9x9x24 inches or smaller. Smaller traps are less expensive and reduce the chance of spraying. Wrapping the trap with a tarp may entice the skunk to enter the trap.
Given the controversy surrounding how to manage a trapped skunk and whether it should be humanely destroyed or not and what methods of destruction are considered humane, it may be best to contract with a wildlife control company when removal or disposal are issues.
Other traps such as foot-hold or body-grip traps are available but are not recommended for use on school grounds.
There are no biological agents available for skunk control.
There are no chemicals registered to control skunks. If you're problem results from the digging activity of skunks in turf to access grubs and other insects, the use of a least toxic insecticide to control the insect problem will likely eliminate the skunk digging problem as well. There will be a time lag between when insect treatments are implemented and skunks leave the area. Refer to the section in this manual on how to manage turf insects for a complete discussion.
There are chemicals available to mask skunk odor. Neutroleum alpha is commercially available and may be used as a deodorant for humans, pets, and surfaces. There is also an enzymatic material derived from the bacterium Bacillus subtilisthat breaks the chemical sulfide bonds in the skunk musk. Several home remedies such as ammonia, bleach, vinegar, and tomato juice are also available for reducing skunk odor. A combination of one quart 3% hydrogen peroxide and 3 cup baking soda with one teaspoon of liquid soap has been effective in neutralizing skunk odor on pets. Bathe the pet in this mixture, taking care around eyes, ears, and mouth and rinse well with tap water.
UWEX publication G3273 "Skunks: How to Deal With Them" by Scott R. Craven, 4 pp.
"Masking Skunks" in Common Sense Pest Control Quarterly. v. 9, no. 2, Spring 1993.
