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Spring has sprung – finally. What a long, hard winter it was.
The late snowfalls will help provide the moisture needed to
green-up the grass and push up the crocuse, daffodils and
tulips.
Reinvigorate your lawn with a good raking but wait to fertilize
until Memorial Day unless you missed that final, important
fertilizer application last Halloween.
When the outdoors beckons, do some pruning and a little bed
clean-up. Wait to clear away last year’s leaf litter until the
weather stabilizes. Newly emerging herbaceous plants will
appreciate the insulation during those inevitable cold spells
that are likely throughout the month.
Vegetable gardens can get started by the end of the month but
only if your soil passes “the crumble test”. Make a ball with a
handful of soil. If it crumbles when poked with a finger, it has
passed.
Even with little to do in the garden, enjoy watching the season
gear up and get going.
The numbers in parenthesis after calendar entries are for
UW-Extension InfoSource pre-recorded messages. Access these by
dialing (414)290-2450 and then following the instructions. Or go
to
www.uwex.edu/disted/infosrce.
Many of the gardening publications from the UW-Extension can now
be printed from the website at
www.uwex.edu/ces/pubs.
Plant a pot of pansies and put them outside. Pansies are
far from wimpy and can tolerate freezing temperatures and frost. If they are
greenhouse grown, expose them to the cold a little at a time.
Finish up your pruning chores this month. Pruned branches of spring flowering
trees and shrubs like forsythia, pussywillow, apple, crabapple, cherry, plum,
and flowering almond can be brought indoors to force into bloom.
Finish that plan for the vegetable garden and get your seeds. Consider planting
colorful veggies amongst other landscape plants where there is plenty of space
and full sun. For shadier spots, choose leafy vegetables. There's a wide
assortment of lettuces, spinach and Swiss chard. Seeds can be sown directly into
the garden about the third week of the month.
If you haven't already done so, sow seeds indoors of broccoli, early cabbage,
cauliflower, celery, eggplant, and head lettuce. Peppers may be sown from seed
indoors now, too.
Alyssum, verbena, calendula, celosia, coleus, dahlia, phlox and salvia can also
be started from seed indoors.
Begin the process of hardening-off seedlings that will be transplanted outside
later this month. This includes broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, head lettuce,
onions, and parsley. At first, place flats in a shaded place protected from the
wind. Gradually increase their daily exposure to sun and wind. Bring them
indoors each night until just a few days before planting.
Regularly check rose cones and other heavily mulched or
protected plants, such as chrysanthemums. Temperatures can get quite high around
these plants on sunny, warm days but it is still cold enough at night to damage
new growth. Remove or vent cones only during the day and replace them before the
sun goes down.
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Open cold frames on sunny days but be sure to close them again before sundown.
Treat pine needle scale on mugo, Scot's, Austrian, white, and red pines with
dormant oil. Dormant oil should be used before bud break but when temperatures
will be above freezing for at least 8 hours.
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Collect soil samples for testing. Sample vegetable gardens, flower gardens,
lawns, and shrub beds separately. Each sample should consist of soil taken from
5 different spots within a particular area. Obtain soil sample mailers from your
county UW-Extension office.
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Repair bare spots in the lawn. Work up the soil well in these areas incorporating some granular fertilizer, too. Sprinkle on a good seed mix of bluegrass and fescue. Rake lightly to mix seed with soil. Tamp to assure seed-soil contact. Mulch lightly with straw. Keep well watered for 2 weeks until all the seed has germinated.
Longer days and higher light intensity means indoor plants will begin growing
faster. Start fertilizing again using a half strength solution every other
watering. Prune hard now to stimulate new, bushier growth.
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Prune oak trees before April 15th. Trees pruned later are more likely to contract oak wilt disease from infected beetles feeding on the sap of fresh wounds.
If you have an oak tree that died of oak wilt last season, have it removed and the wood processed (burned, chipped, or at least the bark stripped) before April 15th.
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Fertilize grapes, raspberries, and blueberries before growth resumes in the spring.
See UW-Extension bulletin A2307 for specifies rates. Call your
county UW-Extension office for ordering information (in
Milwaukee Co. call 290-2400).
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UWEX bulletin A2307
Cole crops, head lettuce, and parsley may be transplanted outdoors. Whether they have been "hardened off" or not, cover them with plastic milk jugs, glass jars, "walls o' water" or floating row cover fabric to protect them from the cold. Remove these on very warm days but replace them at night.
Start tomatoes from seed indoors.
Sow seeds outdoors for the following crops: asparagus, beets, carrots, chard, kohlrabi, leaf lettuce, mustard, onion sets, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radish, spinach, and turnip.
Keep Easter lilies well watered. Cut out the bottom of the decorative foil and set the pot onto an inverted saucer or jar lid inside of another saucer to catch the drainage water. As buds continue to open, remove yellow pollen sacs from the stamens before the dusty pollen drops. It not only stains tablecloths and clothes but removal prolongs the flowers.
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Prepare for apple tree pest control program. If insecticides and fungicides are going to be used, begin treatments as soon as buds begin to expand and grow. A few well-timed sprays early in the season may be all the chemical control necessary. Details are provided in UWEX publications A3565 "Growing Apples In Wisconsin" and A2179 "Apple Pest Management for Home Gardeners".
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bulletin A3565 preview
UWEX bulletin A2179
Begin pest control peach, plum, apricot and cherry. UWEX publication A2130 provides details.
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UWEX bulletin A2130
Establish new plantings of grapes, strawberries, raspberries, asparagus, and rhubarb as soon as the ground can be worked. Proper preparation of the site including pre-plant weed control and the addition of organic matter and fertilizer will assure years of good growth for these perennial crops.
Raspberry canes that will produce this year's crop should be pruned back by 1/4 before growth resumes.
Last year's fruiting canes should have been cut down to the ground after harvest last year.
Young canes that will bear this year should have been thinned, too. Leave only 3-5
canes per foot of row or 6-8 per hill.
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Check upright junipers and red cedars for the brown galls of cedar-hawthorn/apple rust. They will be mingled with the leaves and resemble brown golf balls. Warm spring rains cause them to ooze orange gelatinous "horns" which spread spores to apple, crabapple, and hawthorn. Remove these galls before they erupt to limit the spread of spores.
Check birch leaves when half expanded for pale circular spots that indicate feeding of
birch leaf miner. Early and well-timed chemical control is the key to minimizing the stress
caused by this perennial birch pest.
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Pre-emergent crabgrass control should be applied by May 1 before this year's seeds germinate. Apply only to those areas where crabgrass was a problem last year.
Celebrate Arbor Day on April 26th by planting a tree. Call the UW-Extension Dial-A-Garden-Tip that day for a special message about the history of Arbor Day and a few silly jokes and riddles about trees. Dial-A-Garden-Tip is available daily on InfoSource (290-2450), topic #791.