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August is typically the hottest month of
the year. If it is anything like the rest of this summer,
anything can happen. We have had heat and humidity, drought and
floods in between nights in the fifties and some of the most
pleasant summer days in recent memory.
Drought has presented the biggest challenge to our lawns and
gardens. Begin watering the lawn only if drought is prolonged.
Once you do, if rain doesn’t materialize, you must continue
watering with at least an inch a week.
In flower and vegetable beds, mulch consisting of woodchips,
shredded bark, compost, straw, or even plastic and paper can
help hold in moisture and reduce weed growth.
Watch for signs of insects and diseases. Japanese beetles seem
to be out in numbers statewide. Commercial traps attract them
from far and wide and are not recommended. Pesticide sprays can
get rid of some of them. They lay eggs in lush lawns which seems
like an unfair penalty for keeping your lawn healthy. The eggs
hatch into grubs that feed in the soil for the remainder of this
season and the beginning of next. Treating the grubs later is
more effective than spraying the adults now.
Visit the UW-Extension Horticulture Team website at
wihort.uwex.edu for the Wisconsin Garden Factsheet on Grubs in
the Home Lawn.
There are several ways to get help from the UW-Extension with
plant problems. The four southeastern counties provide
Horticulture Help Lines. In Milwaukee County call 414-290-2410.
In Waukesha call 262-548-7779. In Racine call 262-886-8451. In
Kenosha call 262- 857-1942. You can now also visit the recently
opened UW-Extension Horticulture Center at Boerner Botanical
Gardens in Whitnall Park in Hales Corners, Monday through
Thursday to get help with gardening problems.
From August 2nd through August 12th, visit the UW-Extension
Master Gardeners at the Wisconsin State Fair in their “Model
Backyard” exhibit in the DNR area. There is a native plants
area, a butterfly garden, a vegetable garden, a working compost
bin, a cactus garden and a rain garden sponsored by MMSD and the
SouthEast Wisconsin Master Gardeners, Inc. New this year is the
Lifelong Gardening demonstration area that features tools and
techniques to make gardening easier despite physical
limitations.
Numbers in parenthesis after entries in this month's garden
calendar are for the UW-Extension’s InfoSource website (infosource.uwex.edu)
where you can read, download and print over 200 messages on
gardening and the environment.
First Week
The last date to sow sweet corn for the year is
August 1st.
For late crops of beets, bush beans, carrots, Chinese cabbage,
cucumbers, kohlrabi, and onion sets, continue sowing seeds until August
15th. Peas and collards can be seeded again now, too.
Aphids can continue to show up all season long. Dislodge them with a
strong blast of water or use insecticidal soap (not dishsoap) when first
noticed.
Continue controlling stripped and spotted cucumber beetles which spread
bacterial wilt to cucumbers, squashes, melons, and gourds. Weekly dusts
or sprays of rotenone, carbaryl (Sevin) or permethrin (Eight) are
effective but only if insects are present. Apply late in the day after
flowers close and bees are not present. Remove infected, wilted plants
immediately.
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Colorado potato beetle adults are back for a second generation. Since
these distinctive, globular, yellow and black striped insects are so
easily seen they can either be removed by hand or sprayed. A specific
strain of B.t. called M-trak is effective against these beetles while
they are still young. The insecticides carbaryl (Sevin) or the organic
pesticide rotenone can also be used.
After the last raspberry harvest for the year, prepare for next year
while also avoiding diseases by pruning out old flowering canes leaving
only 3-4 young canes per foot of row. Wait until spring to prune back
shoot tips.
Watch for the appearance of fall webworm webs on limbs of trees and
shrubs. Cut out the tents or spray while the larvae inside are still
young using the biological insecticide B.t. (Bacillus thuringiensis)
sold as Dipel, Thuricide, or Bactur. Once the larvae are over 1 inch
long control is not effective or necessary.
Avoid pruning trees and shrubs since doing so this late in the season
can stimulate new growth that will not harden off in time for the cold
winter weather ahead. Delay pruning until the end of the dormant season
early next spring. Late in the season when trees and shrubs are going
dormant, wounds heal very slowly. Tender wound tissue can also be killed
by freezing temperatures.
Second Week
Harvest vegetables such as tomatoes and melons
regularly and frequently to avoid
overripe fruit which attracts picnic beetles.
Harvest onions and garlic as the tops dry and fall over. Braid garlic tops
and hang in a cool, dry place. Cut onion tops back to 1" and dry thoroughly
before storing. Use any damaged produce immediately.
Fall bearing raspberries will begin ripening. Pick fruit as soon as ripe
since overripe fruit attracts picnic beetles which will seriously damage
fruit.
Make the second application of fertilizer on new plantings of June bearing
strawberries. Apply 3 lbs. of 10-10-10 per 100 feet of row.
This is a good time to order and plant spring flowering bulbs for next
year's early flower display. Plan for different flowering times to extend
the season. As with most flowers, they are best displayed in masses of all
one type and color rather than in mixtures which can be busy and garish.
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Third Week
From now until September 20th is the ideal time to seed
or sod new lawns or to repair diseased or damaged areas of your yard. For a new
lawn, prepare area with an application of the herbicide glyphosate 10 days
before seeding or sodding. Rototill the area to a depth of 6-8". Work in extra
organic matter and fertilizer. Level and rake smooth. Rake seeded areas lightly
to bury seed about 1/8 inch. Tamp to assure good seed to soil contact. Cover
newly seeded areas with a very light layer of straw to help retain moisture. Do
not allow to dry out until all grass has emerged - about 15 days. Mow as soon as
the new grass is 3 - 31/2 inches tall.
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To repair thin spots or damaged areas, core aerate first and then over seed. A
slit seeder can also be used.
Seeds can again be sown for a late crop of leaf lettuce, mustard greens, Swiss
chard and spinach.
If you haven't already done so, divide bearded irises now before their second
flush of root growth which will occur during fall's cool, moist weather. Examine
rhizomes for borer tunnels and soft rot. Destroy all infected plants. Replant by
barely covering the small sections of rhizome each with a fan of leaves and some
roots. Cut leaves back by 2/3's.
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If you want flowering plants indoors this winter of fuschia, wax begonia,
impatiens, geraniums, and coleus, root cuttings now in vermiculite or perlite.
Use rooting hormone powder on cut stem ends. Keep flats or pots in a calm, shady
spot outdoors until mid-September.
Fourth Week
In the flower garden, continue deadheading which will
allow plants to use energy reserves for a final flower display. If there are
signs of diseases, remove all leaf litter and spent plants to prevent the spread
of spores.
Prepare for a Labor Day fertilizer application to the lawn unless you will be
doing a weed n' feed treatment later in September. Mid-September is the only
time of year when weed and feed products are actually timed right for both the
weed control and the fertilization. If you do three applications of fertilizer
per year, they should be at Halloween, Memorial Day and Labor Day. Use a slow
release product for the late season application.
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Late season problems on deciduous plants should be of lesser concern than those
that appeared earlier in the season since leaves will soon drop anyway. Diseased
leaves should be removed promptly to minimize pest problems next year.